The finish... Sapporo

The final week of riding in Japan on Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan's four major islands... the final five days on the bikes to Sapporo.

We arrived in Sapporo a week ago  - just didn't get around to telling you about it until now. 

Leaving Hakodate, we followed the shoreline for about 40 km, first passing the Kakodate docks and ferry port, then a number of small fishing villages, then going inland (a climb of course). There's a fair amount of logging in Japan's forests with all the logs being cut to a precise length (not as long as what's on BC logging trucks) before leaving where they were cut. Judging from the Hakodate harbour, they move as ship's cargo rather than being floated. The coast here had steep hills and rocky shores - not much in the way of sandy beaches.

After 40 km, we crossed the peninsula - hills to climb of course adding up to about 600 m vertical - to the Sea of Japan shore 750 km across the water from Vladivostok. Still fishing villages but more agricultural as we go up the coast to Otobe. The beaches look more amenable to tourism although it looks as if it is still suffering the setbacks of Covid - lots of evidence of adverse economic effects. The tall ship in the next photo is a replica in appearance only (it is a building, not seaworthy at all) of the Kaiyō Maru, one of Japan's first modern warships, a frigate powered by both sails and steam. She was built in the 1860s in the Netherlands for one of Japan's warring shogunates and saw apparently successful action in a naval battle in early 1868. Later in the year she sank in a storm. was wrecked in 1868, off Esashi, Artifacts recovered from the wreck are on display.    

The second day took us from Otobe to Pirika skiing area - hills, climbs (700m) and tunnels...

...and some attractive Japanese gardens...

...and our ski hill and accommodation...

By the way, you can see bigger versions of the photos by clicking on them.

After two 100 km days, the third day was supposed to be 75 km with 700 m climbing which would have been an easy day, tapering to the finish. But they changed it at the last minute in order to give us a 'scenic route' and get us away from a busy highway. That added almost 60 km and doubled the hills for the day, so it was a long one and although maybe not the worst for hills, it was still a long tough day.

On a not-so scenic part of the day, the depressed nature of some things in Japan was evident - the following photos all show abandoned buildings. The middle one appears perhaps to have been abandoned before covid, so maybe there's more to the economic state of this area than just the covid shutdowns. 

A new variation on snow fencing...

Lots of ups and downs as we headed for Lake Toya, one of two volcanic lakes in this region, and views of Mount Yotei which is Hokkaido's answer to Mount Fuji - Yotei isn't as high but shares some of the appearance - and yes, those are ostriches in the foreground. 

Ursula and Brigitte...

Lake Toya...

Photos of the lake from in front of our hotel and a bit of playing around...

Penultimate day... Lake Toya to the other volcanic lake, Lake Shikotsu - 80 km with 1100 m climbing. Scenic highlight was at our lunch stop, in a national park near the village of Otaki, sister village to Lake Cowichan Village on Vancouver Island. Following exchange visits by town officials in the late 1980s, a number of totem poles were constructed using imported BC lumber as a symbol of the special relationship and co-operation between the two villages.

We were at a very nice lakeside resort where I got this photo of a large-billed crow perched on the 'no-parking' sign. I had thought it was a raven, but apparently there are no ravens in Japan, just two varieties of crow, the large-billed and the carrion crow which is the one on the rights, photographed earlier in the week on the coast. 

And another nice gastronomical experience that evening. As well as a Japanese fare in the dining room, they had a cheese fondue and a chocolate fondue. We certainly enjoyed that although we don't think that Switzerland has much to worry about. 

The final day - here we are dressed in out brand new 'Journey to the East' jerseys on the bridge leaving the resort property with Lake Shikotsu behind.

A short day at just over 60 km and 600 m hill climbing to get over the hills from the lake - these hills are pretty much the same gradient as we have coming up to our house. A bit past halfway and we're in the city...

...and proceeded via dedicated bike paths until the last couple of km in the city centre to the hotel. A total of about 2250 km for Rae and a bit over 2300 for Ursula.

By late afternoon, the bikes were boxed and most everything else in the bags.

Dinner that night at the Sapporo Brewery's German Bier Garden for a slightly louder dinner than the more typical Japanese ones.

The next morning was farewells for half the group who were flying out on the Saturday. We then headed out to the 'Historical Village of Hokkaido' which has about 50 buildings - fire hall, blacksmith, printing press, etc - dating back a couple of centuries that have been moved or in some cases replicated here because of their historical significance. Most have people in period costume demonstrating the function of the building. The photos... the main street and a 4/5 scale reproduction of the Sapporo main railway station that existed from 1908 until 1952.

A couple of things that left an impression... 

first, we went there by train and bus. Having trouble finding the platform for the bus, we were helped by a Japanese gentleman who was immaculately dressed in a dark business suit. This was at about 12 noon on a Saturday. He spent probably ten minutes with us before finding the platform. A few minutes after he left us there, he returned with a cold bottle of water, saying it is a hot day and we needed to stay hydrated. He said he was a retired English teacher.

Second, everywhere we went in Japan, even in pretty remote parts of towns, the sidewalks on city streets had these yellow tiles running down the middle. The photo below in a shopping centre in Sapporo. It is for the blind. 

Finally last Sunday it was time to get the van, go to the airport, and after checking in find someplace to have a coffee and a more substantial breakfast since we only had a muffin as we departed the hotel. Right beside the Starbucks was Royce' Chocolate World complete with its own factory right there behind glass to entertain all who pass by. And of course a big shop as well as counters in other adjacent tourist shops. And GOOD chocolate.

"And now we are saying Sayonara to Japan (and Korea) – meaning farewell, adieu, goodbye. We will miss your dedicated bike paths and routes, the politeness and cleanliness all around, the vistas and the small plots of rice and orchards, the endless forest and hills, the lakes, the seas and the rivers." (borrowed from one of TDA's posts).

Our finishing group photo...