First Three Days in the saddle

7 May - we got into Andong yesterday after riding 320 km on the first three riding days. First day in sunny warm weather, Second day in mostly (but not all) dry overcast weather with moderate temperatures. Third day, yesterday, mostly rain with a headwind and temperature around 10 degrees, also at 123 km the longest of the three days. So in three days, more miles on the bike than the previous 6 months put together. Absolutely knackered by the time we got here, about 6 pm last night. 

Leaving Seoul, the customary start photos, here we are with Eve and Greg with whom we've now done several of these trips.

We were quickly onto bike paths along the Han River. 'Path' is hardly the word. These are like super highways compared with the most bicycle infrastructure back home.

We lost count of the bridges across the Han as we departed Seoul.

Some left-over bunkers from Korean conflict days - several groups along the south side of the river as we left Seoul to the southeast. 

Now outside Seoul, we were amazed at the facilities along the bike path. Yes they were accessible by automobile traffic, but it was evident that many were very much integrated into the bicycling network.

Some of the bike route was on old railway rights-of-way, and beautifully paved.  

The lunch stop.

Still on what previously was rail right-of-way, a dedicated bridge, smooth paving, even a statute of a cyclist adorning the bridge abutment. We notice how well the bridges were maintained, including the vehicle bridges in Seoul - there never was an evidence of rust on any of the iron work.

...and several tunnels along the way...

...nicely lighted.

Great hotel right on the bike path that night. Looked like a great water park and lots of clientele with their kids. The view here from the breakfast room before departing for the second day ride - cloudy with threatening clouds from the get-go

Still on superb surfaces, in the background is one of several dams along the river. we're on the Hangang river which translates into South Han. The Bukhan (North Han) which flows from North Korea joined it about half-way along yesterday's ride.

Something else we've noticed in South Korea is the absence of graffiti, no garbage, and the pristine condition of each and every map of the bike network and indeed other explanatory signs, none of them marked up or defaced in any way. Sad that back home it's hard to find a sign this isn't defaced if it's been there for long. And there were clean washrooms at reasonable intervals.

Many peach orchards along the route, all with structures to support the branches when laden with fruit.

Dedicated pedestrian/bike bridges.

After some rain, low-lying mist as we continued along the Hangang river.

That night's stop was in pheasant country. Dinner included pheasant dumplings and thinly sliced pheasant breast that we cooked Chinese-fondue style.

Day three - we did it, but really weren't ready for it. The first 18 km had about 8 km of steep climbing, grades being around 7%. The only distraction from the pain of the climb was a brief stop at a rock carving. We confess we don't know the details of how or why it was there.

Across the other side of the hill, the rain became heavier and the wind stronger in our faces. Cold and not at all pleasant. Rae even put on his raincoat to keep warm. Then the nicest 45 minutes of the ride to lunch when we noticed a coffee shop on the bike path. At the time we were riding with Wim and Stacey. The proprietor toweled us down, got us out of the raincoats and put them up to dry. We had delicious caramel macchiatos - big mugs that helped warm the hands, and later additional hot milk for more warmth. Loved the place and the welcome we received, but sadly we had to go back into the rain and ride the next 20 km to lunch.

Before getting to lunch, it stopped raining, the wind dropped, and it warmed up noticeably. We had already pretty much decided that rain, headwind, and cold would not make for a pleasant afternoon ride. We wouldn't be leaving lunch until 2 pm and with a bit over 60 km to go, it would be a late arrival. But the improved conditions lulled us into complacency so away we went. At first it was nice, following the river on dedicated bike path lined with white-blossomed trees...

 

...it was all great for almost an hour until the rain and wind and cold set in again with over 40 km yet to go. Enough said, we really were tired, but not too tired for a Korean BBQ dinner.

Rest day in Andong with the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site, Hahoe Folk Village which dates back to the 1600s and is now home to descendants of Ryu clan of Pungsan. It's still a working village.

Ursula milling corn the old way.

Adjacent to the village is a Mask Museum that houses masks not just from Korea but all around the world.

Time  to get everything set to depart tomorrow morning.